>>4709(cont.)
¥ Arcade stick(s)I built two arcade sticks to play fighting games and SHUMPs with. I built two because one has Sanwa parts and the other Seimitsu parts. Sanwa is my preferred stick+button for fightan and Seimitsu for SHUMPs because the buttons are a bit stiffer and they made a joystick called an LS-56 (I think) aimed just at playing SHUMPs (it returns to neutral faster and takes more force to move around. Also different type of switches). I can play either type of game fine with both but at the time I had cash to burn and I enjoy building arcade sticks...
Anyway, they both use a custom PCB called the "Brook Universal Fighting Board". It has support for Xbox 360/One, PS3/4, Switch, PC and a couple of other consoles. It can auto detect what console/PC it's plugged up to and go into the correct mode. Or you can force it into any mode you want by holding down one of the buttons while plugging it in. I bought the PCB so I could use the same stick on my friend's consoles (that I don't own) and my PC.
Its been awhile since I built them but generally building one is pretty cheap. The PCB is the main expense. Joysticks are only $20 each and buttons are like $2 (unless you get the expensive exclusive limited edition ones). Its been a great investment. I can play all the old arcade stuff through emulation with it (love playing on Fightcade) but they also work great for things like 2D platformers. I can even play games that are analog-only (even dual analog) because you can program macros to access the special features of controllers like the DS4. For example, I can use the touchscreen by holding down the start button+moving the joystick. Joystick can switch between left/right analog or d-pad. Even has ability to do turbo and a bunch of other stuff.
You can build a wooden case to mount this stuff cheap. Or you can buy a plastic case for really cheap. Some even come with clear plexiglass tops so you can print any art work you want for like $10 and customize your sticks with whatever you want.
Got long again sorry. I have a few other things hanging around like old Microsoft sidewinder controllers (d-pads are awful btw lol). I can also use my old Wiimotes with all the stuff like classic controllers if I want. But in general I never hook them up to PC because the OG Xbox controller works so well for D-pad games and the DS4+Stick cover me for everything else.
One last tip concerning DS4/Wireless. You should probably get a bluetooth dongle to plug into the front USB port on your case and use it exclusively for your DS4. Helps extend the range and knock down the latency a bit compared to bluetooth built into the motherboard (or inside the PC case). The range on the DS4 controller isn't that great and the latency can add up fast.
I remembered something else. If you have any old Xbox 360 controllers laying around I used to use those too and sometimes hook one up because my friend prefers them to DS4. They make a little cheap usb 2.0 -> Wireless base station for those. I've had my a long time and I'm not sure they're still for sale. But those work really well in any OS I've used them with and they have a big better range/latency compared to the DS3/DS4 controllers. Plugging in Xbox 360 controllers via the usb cable doesn't work like you'd expect. You need the wireless base station IIRC. All the cables do is charge the controller on PCs I think.
Oh something else and sorry this has gotten a bit long I know. If you're going to do long USB runs like I've done (40+ feet) make sure you have a powered hub on the controller's side. If you do a direct run it'll try to pull power directly off the PC's USB port. Going 30+ feet really taxes it and eventually it'll die on you mid-game. You'll have to reboot the PC to get it working again because the port will be dead until reboot. It shuts down to prevent harming the chipset I think. This might not be a concern for you. My runs are so long because I
¥ PC -> USB to CAT5 adapter -> Long CAT6 cable -> CAT5 -> USB adapter -> Powered USB Hub -> Gaming controllerRuns. This way my friend and I can play on a TV in my living room using the PC located in my home office. We tried playing without the powered hub one night because I wanted to see how long the direct runs would work and if the set-up I had could support it without the hub. It worked for about 5 minutes until both our controller died from those two direct runs of what I estimate to be about 40-50 feet of CAT6 cable plus the 10 inches or so the adapters add on each end of the run.